Life's an Adventure: Exploring Nepal

Arriving
There was a weighty silence as we came over the mountains preparing to land.  A few lucky souls were on the left side of the plane and had a great view of Everest.  As the wheels touched down, everyone held their breath.  Success!  Everyone clapped and felt relieved.

While coming over the Himalayas is certainly hair-raising, what really had my fellow passengers worried was that the last Turkish Airlines into Nepal skidded off the runway.  In fact, we past the damaged aircraft while taxiing to our gate.  Don't worry though, this isn't a regular occurrence!

The Himalayas seen on our flight from Kathmandu to Jhapa

If you're thinking about flying into Nepal, I strongly recommend you get a visiting visa before you go.  Many people wait and there is a huge line up in the airport.  Our team made sure everyone had a visa before leaving so we just walked right though.  Also, be sure to keep your luggage stickers.  Nepali security will check and give you a hard time if you don't have them.

Airport in Jhapa

Cultural Sensitivity
Be prepared to be segregated by gender.  Women are kept with other women and the security officers that pat them down and inspect their bags will be women.  Do not take offense at this, just go with the flow.  As the country is very poor, so do not expect airports to be at a North American standard.  Buildings will likely look worn, outdated, and possibly dirty.  Bathrooms may not have toilet paper, so take your own and hand sanitizer.  There is little chance you'll find soap.  Often you will see a bucket of water.  The locals use this instead of toilet paper.  This relates to the Nepali custom of never touching food or people with your left hand.  It is considered unclean and only the right hand should be used.  I'll let you guess why!

The sun was barely visible upon landing in Jhapa

With the under-enforced air pollution restrictions, the air in Nepal is highly polluted.  There is often a haze in the sky and despite your proximity, it is unlikely you will see the Himalayas from Kathmandu if you're not there during a rain storm.  As I was participating in a Habitat for Humanity build, we continued our journey by flying to a south-eastern part of Nepal known as the Jhapa district.  As garbage is often burned, especially in more rural regions, the air quality is affected.  I strongly recommend taking a fabric mask with you to help combat the inhaling of both burning garbage and vehicle exhaust.

My sleep sheet spread out in my room in Birtamod

Accommodations in Rural Areas
If you have never been to a developing nation before, you will want to prepare yourself for the different building standards you may encounter.  The level of comfort you are accustomed to is also lower and you should prepare yourself accordingly.  The hotel in Birtamod that we stayed at was considered to be one of the best in the area.  The showers were cold, the beds were incredibly hard, and the bedding was questionable.  Investing in a sleep sheet or light sleeping bag is probably a very good idea!

I also recommend taking a laundry soap bar, clothespins and short bungee cords so you can wash clothing and hang it to dry in your room.  Staying clean will make your trip more enjoyable. 

Basic Nepali home in the rural districts

 The purpose of my trip was to do a Habitat for Humanity build with my students and so we were exposed to a greater degree of poverty than perhaps most tourists see.  Homes are barely more than one room shacks made of sticks and mud. 

The Nepali People
The people, though desperate to make a better life for themselves, are pleasant and welcoming.  They are genuinely happy to see you and despite language barriers, they try their best to communicate with you.  Taking the time to try and learn the Nepali language goes a long way and an exchange of culture is much better than expecting the Nepali people to accommodate your language and culture.

Flowers received during our welcome ceremony

Depending on where you are staying, the purpose of your trip, and how rural you go, you may find yourself in a welcoming ceremony.  This may include the giving of flowers, dancing, demonstrations of local culture, and the introduction of elders.  It is respectful and proper to greet the people you meet by placing both hands together in a prayer-like fashion, bowing your head respectfully and saying "Namaste".  The Nepali peole can be shy at first, but in my experience, once they get to know you more, they are a warm and wonderful people. 
The Food

Nepali Thali

Whether you are in rural or urban areas, Nepal has some amazing culinary delights to share.  The traditional meal is called a Nepali Thali.  It consists of rice, cooked lentils, a curry, sauteed greens, cooked vegetables, and a tomato-based chutney.  The flavours are quite complex and often spicy.  As Nepal is so close to China and India, you will often see these flavours blended.  Be open to trying everything and you will not be disappointed.  Tip: Keep a glass of water handy for those unexpected spicy moments. 

Nepali momos

You won't find beef in Nepal as the country is over 80% Hindu, and so the cow is considered sacred.  Asking for it will be seen as an insult your hosts.  My favourite food on the trip was the Nepali momo.  This delicious dumpling comes with a dipping sauce and is filled with either vegetables or chicken.  A combination of spices, tomato and cilantro is often found in the dumpling itself and many chefs will guard their recipes secret.  The sauce varies depending on the restaurant, but I never had a bad momo experience.  I highly recommend trying them!


Tourism in Kathmandu

The tourist district of Thamel at night

Be prepared to bargain, and bargain hard.  If you're with a tour group, ask your leader what kind of prices you should expect for things like singing bowls, statues, jewelery and carvings.  If you're Caucasian, you'll stand out and vendors will sometimes set higher prices.  The markets are plentiful and you can take your time if shopping is your passion.

There are a lot of shops, mountaineering stores, money exchangers, and restaurants in this area.  Keep in mind, prices will be higher because you are in the tourist area. As pickpocketing can be frequent, keep a close eye on your valuables.  Never put anything in your back pocket and be discrete with your money.  In the first few hours we were there, I had a small child try to reach into my pocket.  Don't think that because the person is young, they aren't much of a threat.  People often let their guards down around children.  Exploring this district at night is more dangerous.  So if you are a solo traveler, you may want to wait until daytime to do your shopping.

Prayer flags at Monkey Temple

Looking out on Bhaktapur

If cultural and historical adventure is more your style, the Kathmandu valley is rich with it.  Sadly, the 2015 earthquakes damaged a lot of structures and destroyed some beautiful temples and monuments.  There are still some wonderful sights in Patan Durbar Square, the ancient city of Bhaktapur, and at Monkey Temple, but they may be under construction for repairs.  If you don't have a guide, take time to acquaint yourself with the city. 

Accommodations at Hotel Vaishali

Accommodations in Kathmandu are more expensive, but you will find higher quality in the tourist district of Thamel.   We stayed at Hotel Vaishali and it was a beautiful hotel.  The hotel was fairly easy to access and our tour guides from Bon Holidays were really informative and knowledgeable. 



 If you have the opportunity (and desire) to visit this historically beautiful country, I highly recommend doing so.  Always visit a local travel clinic before your trip to be sure you're medically prepared, and stick to bottled water.  By taking these simple safety precautions, you'll be able to enjoy the hospitality and beautiful culture of the Nepali people.

Namaste.